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  1. Last week
  2. Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

    Your very brave guy tackling this build,good to see the turboyaris is coming along fine,btw is there a part number for that trip CPU delete cubby hole ,would like one of those myself as I don't use mine either,and I now have led taillights super rare got them off a yarisclub owner sold on eBay ,well pleased 😁 keep up your good work buddy
  3. Hi, I want to change my brake pads & front discs on my 2009 Yaris which is the facelift model but as there is not a workshop manual published for it I decided to go to Toyota tech.eu but I cannot find any information relating to the braking system or any other mechanical repair info, All the repair manuals seem to relate to things like windscreen or body repair and suchlike. Am I looking in right place ?. I have a workshop manual relating to the 2007 mk2 Yaris and does anybody know if it uses same braking system?. I would like to know the torque settings and the like. I would be very grateful for any information on the above and would like to thank anybody in advanceb. Dave.
  4. Earlier
  5. Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

    I managed to bump into Grant at GBE at JDM Combe and he reckons my idling issue is down to the idle control not set up correctly/due to the changes me made after the engine failure. So for the time being I’m not going to worry about that, But I’ve had to readdress the cooling issue. Also had to buy a new gearbox diff seal and a new oilcooler and lines ! Getting bored of spending money now 😂 So I’ve ditched the civic half rad because for whatever reason it wasn’t cooling the engine it kept creeping up and up in temperature. So I’ve got a full size EP3 civic type R rad from mishimoto, let the fitting ball ache commence. measured up and bent up some aluminium drilled some holes and managed to mount one side. Same again for the other side. I even ground out a bit of metal and messed about with other bits to get the rad to sit where I wanted it too. radiator mounted. Soon figured out the bonnet wouldn’t shut because of the radiator cap. A tad crud but it fits, had to cut a square out of the skin of the bonnet but it shouts lovely. Everything clears and fits time to makes the hoses fit. The bottom hose the standard fits but needed trimming down. The top hoses are made up of different ones from the BMW rad so I made them fit with some trimming too. All plumbed in ! But no pictures. I also installed two 12 inch mishimoto slim fans to the rad and had my auto electrician wire them in. I know that’s a dead easy job but he has everything to do it in 2 minutes instead of me struggling😂 Next problem, Oil cooler lines are too short and when I removed one of the fittings the oil cooler broke. On the oil cooler where you attach the fittings there’s a pressed on nut with a thread on top, when I removed my fitting the pressed on nut/thread span with the fitting so that was the end of my mocal cooler. So I got myself another one ! This time a black one. Abit more stealth this time. Spent today sorting that out and making everything go back nicely and tie up everything as neatly as I could. Sized up all the lines and remade them refitting and refitted the radiator, intercooler and oilcooler in their correct places. All fits again and looking a bit nice, perfer the full size rad over the half rad. Think the half rad made it look cheap. Alway has to cut some more of the slam panel and bent it to make it clear and fit around the new rad. Next was the overflow bottle I forgot about🙈 So I’m running out of room but managed to squeeze it down the side of the rad and chassis leg. Jublee holding it on through a gap in the metal, doesn’t rattle or more so it’s staying there. Also fitted a new drive shaft seal drained and refilled the gearbox oil. No pictures because no one wants to see that boring stuff. Back to the radiator, filled and bled the radiator seems to be okay drove the car up and down the road but literally for 2 minutes once it was up to temperature. Gauge seems to stay with in a few degrees instead of slowly creeping up so hopefully fingers crossed it’s cured it. Even actually got the bumper to sit half correctly, hoping not to take it off for a while 😂 As you seen I received a trip computer delete from Josh in Ireland ! Cheers dude. Came with some extras and at his request I shall look after his spider. 3 reasons I wanted a trip delete. 1. Tiny bit of weight saving aha 2. My trip doesn’t actually work after having the stand alone installed. 3. Wanted somewhere to hide my turbo timer. (They’re pretty pointless but I managed to get a genuine HKS one for dirt cheap) Test fit to where it will sit, seems okay to me so I’ll get the auto electrician around soon it get it all wired in. While I was inside the car for a change I made some door bar protectors out of some old vinyl wrap I have. Hopefully it’ll help with the paint on the door bars getting ruined. Being yellow it shows up a lot of marks. Hoping to get the dash sorted soon and finally get the car on the road properly!
  6. It's a mocal 10 row cooler and I opted for AN fittings, the plate is also a Mocal one with thermostat. I basically pieced it together myself with Mocal parts apart from the hoses and fittings as it's waay cheaper than buying the complete kit.
  7. Do you know the specs of your oil cooler? I can't find them in this thread.
  8. Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

    We managed to strip the head and front cover on my drive way while we looked for a reason I ended up with 16 bent valves. Unfortunately I didn’t take too many pictures of this. We inspected the pistons for damage and they were okay thankfully only a tiny little mark evenly on all 4 in 4 places. The engine builder said it won’t cause any problems etc and it’s ever so minor but really annoying. Anyway before we took the head and chain off we checked timing marks and figured out that on the cam timing it was spot on but in the crank the piston was at bottom dead centre, very odd. Head went off to be inspected and rebuilt new head gasket ordered etc. 2 days later he returned with my head fully re built and new gaskets we bolted it back in with the ARP bolts 95NM per each head bolt ! Went to time the engine and obviously the crank timing was out, gutted. So it’s time to remove the engine, very annoyed about that because I really wanted it to not have to come out. A lot of stuff had to come out just to get it to this stage, unbolting the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached is a total nightmare. I held the exhaust turbo and manifold all together off my strut brace with a few cable ties. It would’ve taken hours to remove them on their own. The engine builder came round with his engine crane and helped me lift the engine out the car. Engine out and we took it to his workshop and inspected the crank pulley that runs the chain. We got a 2 legged puller and put it on the sprocket then got a 1/2 inch ratchet and we wound the pulley off the crank with 5 turns by hand!!!!! Off came the pulley and that was the cause of my problems it span on the crank threw it all out of time and smashed all the valves. Really really bad design by Toyota the sprocket is friction welded/heat srunk onto the crank with no wood ruff key or anything to keep it pressed up against it. There is no key way on the sprocket and no cut out on the crank for a wood ruff key. Now loads 1nz’s last hundreds of thousands of miles especially lots of abuse and I’ve never hear of one going before. Especially the N/A engine before mine got rebuild I gave it utter death aha. We think that having the crank hardened effected that sprocket, I believe the crank is heated and dipped in a chemical/oil and we think that the sprocket expanded but never srank back down to size. We heat srank a new sprocket on and had to make all the timing marks up and get it on in the correct place. We then took the engine to an engineer who rally’s a mark1/2 escort with a Vauxhall 2 litre red top engine and builds custom motorbike frames for a living. He wouldn’t allow me to take any pictures in his garage/workshop he was very protective, Anyway he welded the sprocket on in 3 places more like tacks with his mega fancy welder. Welding it wasn’t the way I wanted to go but I believe I didn’t have much choice. Back to the workshop to fit the chain and tensioner back in and out the front cover on. We also modified the chain tensioner so that is only retracts a little bit once the oil pressure is gone with a spot we made inside the tensioner just as a fail safe. Then we dropped the engine home and got it on the mounts and I spent all Sunday with a friend of mine putting it all back and starting the car and getting massively sun burnt, oops. Back in and running but I’ve got a weird idling hunting issue, it’s not consistent and doesn’t happen all the time I’ve checked everything could possibly ignition timing takes a while to start. While I was stripping the bits off the engine I took the gear cable bracket back off after measuring some bits and got my work mate to remake it for me. I cut the silicone joiner down to give more room too. isn’t pretty but it works and clears the silicone hose and doesn’t rub anything or squash the hose. Also selects better and returns to neutral better. I made a heat shield and covered it in the gold reflective heat tape to help prevent the brake and clutch pipes getting super hot from the turbo. Thats as far as I got currently, I’m hoping to MOT and insure the car in the coming weeks and get some miles on the car after I’ve sorted the idling/possible ignition timing and my dash display needs to be corrected as that was never finished because it blew up.
  9. Alex Track TSport

    That's exactly what I have on my thread you can see some pictures off my mounting.
  10. Alex Track TSport

    I'm not sure yet. Probably just a small Mocal one on a sandwichplate with a thermostat since I'm not going to boost it. I prefer a longer cooler over more rows because you don't lose as much oil pressure with that, but I'm not sure about the mounting points yet.
  11. Alex Track TSport

    Looks good! Which oil cooler you getting?
  12. Alex Track TSport

    Next up: I wrecked my TRD LSD gearbox, replaced that with a different one and that's ruined after less than 20 KM too. This is driving me nuts, so I need a fix for this so I don't spend days replacing a gearbox every couple of kilometres; Fit LED read lights (thanks Lani!); Move the bucket seat slightly to the left (more to the driver side door) because it's not really right in front of the steering wheel; Fit a steering wheel with a thicker rim; Roll cage (Dutch KNAF spec); Oil cooler; Coolant temperature gauge.
  13. So, I previously had a 2000 Yaris 1.3. Three doors, factory navi, factory bodykit, factory alloys, uprated suspension, aircon, electric mirrors (+folding), etc. I loved that car! It was my first car, drove it all over Europe and had it for seven years. In fact, I'd still have it but some idiots set it on fire just for fun and giggles. Luckily, I already wanted to start a second Yaris project. I did some laps on the Nurburgring with my daily Yaris but I wanted something faster and go all out on it. So, the search began. Three doors, no aircon, no accident history, silver or thunder grey or red and as stock as possible. And then I found one, a 2001 TSport in thunder grey. Barely run in with only 220000 kilometres on the odometer! I put it in my garage, stripped the interior and then two weeks later my daily Yaris burned to the ground. So, I had to buy two cars in three weeks. Anyway, the TSport. It spent way too many months in my garage but when it saw daylight again it had the following speclist. Exterior Rear wiper delete; Front fog light delete (holes currently blocked with real carbon fibre, want to put brake cooling in it). Interior Fully stripped. Rear bench out, carpet out, rear cards out, headliner removed, stocks seats out, radio removed, clock removed; Holes in dashboard blocked with real carbon fibre; Sabelt GT140 driver side bucket seat (FIA); LTEC driver side four point harness (FIA); LTEC steering wheel (with horn) on boss (no snap-off, because Nurburgring); Battery moved to passenger seat spot (dry battery, mounted with appropriate hardware, terminal covers, main resetable fuse directly at the battery). Chassis BC Racing BR coilovers with 5KG/mm springs in the front and 4KG/mm rear springs. I had this set custom made a couple of years ago before they sold official Yaris sets. Sold it after a while and bought it back for this project; SuperSprint front swaybar bushings and droplinks; Cusco front subframe brace; Whiteline rear ARB; TRD top rubbers for the rear shocks; TTE 15x6,5 wheels; NS2R 195/50/15 tyres all around (threadwear 180); Front strutbrace. Brakes Black Diamond grooved discs (front) Ferodo discs (rear) Carbone Lorraine CL5+ pads (front) Ferodo pads (rear) Ferodo uprated DOT4 fluid Driveline Stock 1NZ-FE 1.5 litre engine; NGK plugs under new coils; Larger 50mm throttlebody; Pipercross foamfilter directly on the throttle body via a MAF adapter; VDO oil temperature sensor via filter sandwich plate (gauge in dashboard); TRD LSD in gearbox; Bigger radiator; Revotec electric fan; Custom catchtanks for oil and coolant; Stock exhaust with TTE 90mm backbox. And of course a lot other things. New clutch, new wheel bearings, new anchor plates for the front brakes, lots and lots of new bolts & nuts etc. I also cleaned and painted a lot of parts when building this car. But enough words, time for pictures!
  14. Always good to see other vitz,ters ,cool 👍😎
  15. DSC00476.JPG

    Unmarked seats.
  16. DSC00470.JPG

    Spotless interior.
  17. DSC00466.JPG

    Side view only.
  18. DSC00459.JPG

    The Best badge.
  19. DSC00458.JPG

    Just been cleaned.
  20. DSC00457.JPG

    Clay barred, High definition wax and Super resin Polished.
  21. DSC00455.JPG

    Hopefully one of the best examples, with extremely low mileage. Completely original.
  22. May 6th 2018, Japfest Silverstone YCUK stand. Bit off a last moment decision honestly, since the turbo was done and the car was running fine I decided to book the ferry and visit everyone at Japfest! Me and my mate installed the Vitz Rs lip late at night just in time for the big trip, cheeky picture from the night before Japfest. A wild limited edition Yaris GRMN appeared! Mr. Greenwood's charged beast, love the carbon bits! Finally seen a genuine Vitz for the first time turbo squad Thank you for watching, had a great weekend in UK. Again thank you to everyone that popped over for a chat and all the compliments on the car.
  23. Good to hear your ac was fixed pal ,look forward to seeing what your going to do next to your go kart(fun Yaris). I'm putting in tailored seat covers in mine next ,look nice ones black leather on the bolsters with suede in the middle,hope they fit in well lol
  24. Lou's t sport

    Nice I got one too from a civic type r I like the suede look
  25. Oh yes mate just got the car back from the AC repairs she's all good now.
  26. Lou's t sport

    Home made suede gear gaitor. Much better than the tacky oem one!
  27. I bet your enjoying your new turbo set up mate 👍
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