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  1. Last week
  2. Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

    @Earpl cheers man ! Managed to get replacement headlights from Milo because I ruined the paint on the new ones I bought so cheers dude, I didn’t have time to sort them out. I managed to drill holes in the dash and mount my dash display and wire it up. I’ve got to clean it up and put some grommets in but it all works ready to be set up. Finally got round to making brackets and mounting my oil cooler and bolting it down too. Looks cramped at the front now but I think it looks meaner. I had to higher the car to get it on the back of the recovery truck and even then it wasn’t enough, Edds underbrace hit the bed of the truck so we had to use planks of wood. We finally got it in and we were set to take it to have an exhaust made ! So we dropped it down the following morning and the fabricator basically said no chance to using my V band mount I had already bolted into the turbo. This meant I had to have a flange made and go from there, He said about a week to have a stainless flange made (gutted because I was hoping to take the car straight to the mappers) anyway I had no choice let them get in with it. I wanted 3 inch exhaust off the turbo but I was asking a lot from the really tight space behind the turbo bulk head and everything else. We agreed to have 2.5inch off the turbo to 3 inch to a mid box then to a back box. I get a phone call to say my car will be done about a week later, they made the turbo elbow with a collector to a 2.5 inch pipe to 3 inch pipe and the rest as they said. I asked to have a 3 inch tail pipe just out of the pipe they used for the exhaust to keep it neat and tidy. Pretty happy with the work that was done looks fairly tidy and they fitted my wide band sensor in too (infinity exhaust Bristol). So today I’ve dropped the car off at GB enterprises and he’s going to get the car started and a base map etc so I can run the engine in, workshop was full of evos and Subaru’s mainly and a 2500bhp dyno cell ! So next week I’ll be waiting nervously for a phone call to see how it’s gone !! Fingers crossed !
  3. Hi just wanted to get some info on how to install a bee r rev limiter to a ncp10 echo/Yaris has a 2nzfe in it. Just wanted ro know what wires in the ecu you have to use to get it to work if anybody has done one and has the wiring diagram for it would be awesome
  4. ECU Pinout

    Hi rob323 I’m trying to install a bee r rev limiter to my ncp10 with a 2nzfe in and would be much appreciated if you could email me the ecu pin outs
  5. Earlier
  6. Hello I am from Poland and i have to buy tail fogs for yaris ts 05-09. In poland they are not avaible. Someone can know where I can buy them (rear+left)?
  7. Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

    That sir, is a quality, quality build and I take my hat off to you. A breath of fresh air from the dross that’s being labelled as “project” these days.
  8. engine code

    Hi could iget some advise please i have had the check engine light on my car on for over a month now and finally i got it put on the diagnostic thing. I am getting error code po135 o2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1. Whcih sensor is this the one under the car or the one after the cat converter. Also is it a job i could do my self by jacking up the car.
  9. bought yaris 1.3 vvti spirit

    Hi there welcome! What is the wheel size and size of tyres on it?
  10. Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

    Not really a lot to update on lately everything’s gone but slow because of Christmas and life. I’ve managed to get the car booked in for an exhaust to be made the first weekend of Jan and hopefully fingers cross transport the car down to get it’s running in map and the dash set up. Going from the exhaust fabricators to the mappers on the same day fingers crossed. Have started some finishing up bits to the car, I’ve brought some new headlights (thanks Jack) for pointing me in the right direction. I’m currently in the middle of painting the insides black. Need to finish them off and reseal them up. Also had the final sensors wired into the ECU and managed to plumb them in(oil temp and pressure and turbo oil feed). Getting all that to fit in one bit took some thinking and making sure all the fittings were the correct size and correct for the engine block. It’s all hidden under the massive inlet manifold so you can hardly see it, doesn’t look too messy. Had the auto electrician wire it all in for me ready. Few bits that need doing before it goes for an exhaust and mapping. • Bolt the rear of the roll cage down to the rear tubs • Double check all wheel bolts/nuts Hub nuts and track rod ends etc. • Fit new lights. • Drill holes in the dash for the display and mount the display, Tidy wires. • Clean the car down wash it off inside and out. • Get a box of spares ( coolant, brake fluid etc) ready for the mappers. Planning to have this all done before we transport it, Somethings more important than others.
  11. radio code

    Hi i hope someone can help i would like to reset my check engine light on my 1.3 spirit yaris. Recently i bought this car and there was no light on when i test drove it etc everything seems fine otherwise but after refuelling i think i didnt tighten the fuel cap enough and the light stays on now. I have found a method to reset it by removing the negative battery terminal for a few mins but i guess i will lose the radio code and i cannot find it in the handbook. Does anyone know what this code is because i read online it is a generic 320 for many toyotas and some dont even have a code. I dont want to risk in case it isnt 320 and i get struck without a radio. Thanks for reading.
  12. bought yaris 1.3 vvti spirit

    Hello fellow yaris owners i bought my yaris 1.3vvti spirit 3 door today after nissan micra written off. I am very please with the car. It has 70,000 miles but is very tidy and seems well looked after. One thing which is bugging me tho and that is the speedo seems to be reading inaccurate. When im doing about 30mph its reading 42 and when im doing about 5mph it reads 15or 20. I did 60 on a dual carriageway and it was reading 103. Is there an easy remedy to this maybe some sort of calibration setting or will it need more serious attention.
  13. Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

    Car has BC RM with the damper adjuster under the strut not on top* I can’t edit the post currently 🙈
  14. Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

    Engine in turbo on intercooler plumbed up and turbo plumbed in its time for engine management. I picked a Link G4+ Fury it can do anything and everything engine wise, Also got myself a race Technology DashPro2 to go with the ECU. Had to get the Link wideband to go with the ECU and pin kit and a Link 3 bar map sensor. I didn’t even attempt to wire the ECU up apparently it’s pretty full on so I my auto electrician mate to do that job for me and he also did my battery relocation. Factory ECU out and Link wired in I had to decide where I wanted to locate my dash display. I finally decided to have it directly in front the steering wheel as that to me is the best place for it, I had the bracket made and welded to the dash crash bar. I’ll probably fill the empty gap with a bit of carbon fibre and make some switches or something to make use of the space. The dash display will show oil temp/pressure water temp and boost, also fuel rpm and mph. It also has a shift light and much more. Ive got BC BR coilovers on the car had them for a while and a white line rear ARB also the rear axle is polybushed too. The brake were upgraded previously yellow stuff pads and EBC disc and braided front lines. The brakes as they were probably wouldn’t handle the power the car should hopefully make so I looked into having custom brackets made to fit Megane brembos to the car, Unfortunately they’re massive and the way they are mounted meant I wouldn’t get a bracket made to suit 15” wheels. I found a few company’s that made big brake kits for the Yaris some to suit 15” some not to suit 15” I picked a kit from HI-SPEC seen them around they seems a better bet than K sport personally. They are a budget kit as far as brakes go but they came with two 4 piston calipers, 285mm floating two piece rotors and braided front brake lines mounting brackets and Ferodo DS2500 brake pads. Of course they had to be yellow! Along with fitting the brake kit I also replaced the front wheel bearings and cleaned and painted the hubs. The wheels didn’t fit over the brakes, what a surprise. Ended up using 20mm spacers and 15mm on the back to bring the wheels out, H&R spacers and the brakes cleared but not the arches don’t, I’ve destroyed the front arches by rolling them JDM style just for the moment so it’ll roll and clear. I’m planning on running a wider tyre too so when the car gets painted I’ll get the arches flared or something to suit the wheels/tyres. Pictures don’t really do it much justice the wheels stick out a fair bit, I’m planning on using 205/50/15 AD08R tyres as I loved my 195/50/15 they grip well in all weathers. Back to the engine bay and I had AN fittings put into the rocker cover so I could use them for my oil catch tank. I used the old air con pipe bracket bit to make a bracket to hold my catch tank then made up some braided line with AN fittings to connect it all together. One of the things I did have to fight with was the gear linkage bracket that holds the cables on the gearbox, The cables come right in front of the turbo compressor side for the air filter. So I played about with it and figured out I could create just enough space to clear a 90 degree silicone pipe if I rotated the bracket 90 degrees. Just about clears enough to sort out piping for an air filter. So I took it to work and got the bracket cut and welded and a support put in place to stop the flex. It got cut and welded to see what it looks like on a gearbox, Seemed fine so had it welded and painted. Not great welding but it wasn’t me, it’ll hold for what I want. I fitted it to the car and the cables routed fine and selection is good too with a hyper sport shortshifter. Now the linkage system was sorted I could route myself an air filter. It’s hard to see but the pipe closest to the oil catch tank is the air filter pipe, it has a 90 degree silicone hose to another 90 degree solid pipe to a reducer pipe to a RAMair filter. The RAM air filter is pretty big I can’t fully remember the actual size but says it’s suitable for 300bhp apparently, It sits behind the passenger front light. Everything sits fairly okay, it is messy but there isn’t a great deal I’m willing to do about that, function over form in my opinion.
  15. Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

    @Zachary Gill don’t count the £££ but a lot and when I update more you’ll see more cost that’s gone into it aha as for the turbo they rate it at 340-50bhp max and haven’t got a running PSI figure.
  16. Zac's PH2 T Sport

    Managed to get a Genuine TRD rear lip, Think it changes the whole end of the car, Also de wipered and badged the rear, Finally The drive shaft went on the drivers side, I did have a spare in the garage but once i fitted the new one it was leaking gearbox oil from the seals, So i had to leave her a week, Once My man from MR T (Luke) got me the new seals she was back to 100%. Ish... she is still low idling and stalling on me, I changed the VVTI Sensor and did nothing, Now she is currently sat on BC BR coilovers, Runing standard shocks on the back due to a leaky shocker...But she is sitting just nice for me, Loads more work to do, I have fitted MTEC Drilled and Groved front discs and EBC drilled and groved rears with MTEC pads on the back and on the Front, This weekend i removed Roof liner (Was horrible color) pillar plastic on the front, Fitted a fire extinguisher in the passenger foot well, Just in case, Also got a Apexi Water gauge removed a vent in the front for this to fit, Would like to get some rear bushes, Also a TRD front lip would be nice if i can find one, She is going Decat as i only have the mid silencer removed ATM, Harness next with some nice bucket seats,
  17. Zac's PH2 T Sport

    Hello Guys, Not much excitement on my build but thought i would comment and show whats been done, Been a member for a few years and seen quite a lot of nice cars come and go, I bought this T sport in Feb2016 with approx 97K on the clock, Since then most of my spare money has gone into this, This was the first day i bought her, fully stock except from the yellow fog lights, From there i installed a Front brace and a K&N Typhoon induction kit, with a D1 Spec rad cap and some blue hose covers(Removed) Along with some other bits and bobs, and of course Starlet wiper mod.... I noticed my induction kit wasnt doing much behind the fog light, So i remove it and put a direct feed to this, and changed the color of the other fog blue, Soon after i got myself some fabulous eye lids, Which change the look of the car completely, Also got the bottom part of the bumper sprayed thunder grey, Cheeky picture around Rockingham I did decide one day to try and remove the bottom part of the rear bumper (Like EK9 civics) just to see what it looks like. Yeah dont waste your time guys, Looks shit After this I installed a MK2 spoiler but first attempt did not go well guys, Make sure you do not put too much pressure on the glass, Once this was finally fitted i got it sprayed in Matt black and fitting team dynamic alloys, They do really need a referb. Badly but dont look bad, After this was sorted next was stability/handling, I managed to get a harness bar from another yaris i broke for parts, It works better than the OMP rear brace which just sit on the brushes, I got a 4point undebrace and also got Poly bushes for the front, Cleaned up the wish bones and make it run and handle so much better, Harness was removed due to unbranded and no Tag, only ran them for a week or so to test to see if i liked using them on a daily. I managed to get my hands on a carbon fiber engine cover and a front panel (covers the radiator)
  18. Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

    Cannot wait for this to be completed man. keep updating us, How much do you think this build has cost you so far? Any idea of what the Hp figure will be? Safe Hp and what safe PSI tubro will run?
  19. Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

    In between fittting the roll cage I dropped the front sub frame and wishbones etc cleaned up the rust and painted all of it. Front anti roll bar, 4 point underbrace and wishbone brace got powder coated ready to be fitted along with polybushes to anything that has a bush in it. Once it was all refitted it was time to fit the engine ! Along with inlet manifold and the first test fit of the turbo!!! engine and gearbox went back in a treat, the turbo manifold I’m using is a cheap cast manifold I got off eBay from Tokyo apparently and it fitted my turbo perfectly. the inlet manifold is using an avensis throttle body it’s around 70mm. Had to have an adapter plate made to fit the throttle body to the manifold. made a gasket for it also have somewhere videos of the plate being made. the clutch I used is from a glanza, competition clutch it was the only one that says it would handle a decent amount of torque as I’m not 100% sure what the final figure will be so I went over kill. Engine bay got painted black to tidy it up a bit and the battery tray got cut and shortened and the battery got moved to the rear of the car with a tiny light weight one. that cleared some space for me to run pipe work and whatever else. Next headache was getting a radiator to fit, I tried a civic half rad but it never sat right and I wasn’t happy with it. It’s a cheap direnza BMW 3-5 series alloy rad three times the thickness as the standard Yaris rad and a fair bit longer, but best of all it has an expansion tank built into the side. measurement were taken before purchase, Once arrived I had to find away to mount it to the car. It is mounted at the bottom too and sits more or less in the standard position, also using a mishimoto slim fan to go with it. Next was pluming it to the car so off to the local motorsport shop at castle combe with a bunch of old hoses. I came back with a few bits and a lighter wallet. The pipes coming off the engine block and thermostat were smaller than the hose ports in the Rad so it was a case of having different reducer sizes. It’s also using a TRD cooler thermostat from fensport. Next headache was finding a intercooler suitable but not too big. A friend of mine has a Colt CTZ ralliart turbo and he got himself a airtec cooler that’s a direct fit to his car, I asked him nicely if I could offer it up to my car. This is the result. Well I couldn’t believe my luck! It has bolt holes that run in exactly the same place as the crash bar bolts on the Yaris and bolts in place perfectly. So a email to airtec and I had my own one on its way, of course it had to be yellow. And of course ebay special intercooler pipes were on there way too. It all arrived after a lot of faffing from airtec, not the greatest of customer services. Put it on and started to route my pipes. the cooler pipe coming from the left hand side(driver side) back to the throttle body is just a long pipe that runs the length of the front end. Blue silicone pipe was all I could get for my radiator hoses with out waiting weeks and weeks and I didn’t have time so blue it is (I don’t like it) but needs must. I routed all the pipes and thought I was dead clever....until I tried to fit the front bumper and the bottom pipes off the cooler don’t fit. I ended up removing the bit hard pipes and used four 90degree bends to make a neater and tighter 180degree bend around to the connecting pipes. Looks pretty mean with out a bumper, also the oilcooler got relocated to the front and I had holes drilled in the crash bar. A lot of the car got plumbed in while waiting for bits for the intercooler etc. The turbo I’m using is a Garrett GT2560R ballbearing turbo. The oil lines were made and the feed comes from the front of the engine on the oil pressure switch, I used a 3 way T peice and removed the switch all together the thread type is 1/8 NTP and it’s very common. The oil return was drilled and put into the engine block and -AN10 was used for the return as there’s no oil pressure pushing it through. The turbo has to have an restrictor in because of the oil pressure the oil pump puts out. The water lines were connected to the block and the metal feed that runs from the front to the side of the block. All lines were made with -AN fittings and braided hose.
  20. Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

    @jackkadc you’ll have to get in line ! Aha @Zachary Gill Thanks! it’s a carbon skinned bootlid I should’ve put that, just got carried away writing stuff up. It was originally off the orange max power HKS car then passed down, believe it or not I missed it the first time it came up for sell but couldn’t miss out on it the second time. I’ve got loads to update yet, the car is currently in its final wiring and engine bay sorting stages and hoping to get it off for a running in map before Christmas.
  21. Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

    Really good read this matey, Very good job and doesnt seem to be any cheap parts in sight! Good Job and keep us updated!! Where the hell did you find that carbon fibre boot!!?
  22. Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

    Thoroughly enjoyed reading this mate! Such a mega build and ill hopefully see it in person and get a passenger lap in it one day? +1
  23. Hi guys and girls! My names Lewis and I’ve been a member of the forum for a good few years but never really posted anything mainly just been nosey and bought stuff off the market place. I though I’d make a build post as best I can for people who asked about the car on Facebook and for my own personal document. Car started off as a completely standard 2003 Toyota Yaris T sport phase 1, my first car ! I had it on the road for about 3-4ish years and did the normal things wheels coil overs etc. Unfortunally one night coming home from work someone drove straight into the passanager door. Totally wrote off the door and dented the inner seal. So the accident happened 5 days before my insurance renewal. Annoyingly the insurance company Elephant didn’t know there arse from there elbow ended up chasing the wrong insurance company who were at fault. After 12 months of back and forth and endless phone calls (and the car being off the road as it’s wasnt insure-able no one would touch me with a unsettled claim) I finally got a pay out. They paid £1200 for a door and for me to get it painted, the man on the phone said about writing the car off and I agreed thinking I’d get more money. Few days later they contacted me saying they weren’t willing to write the car off as the car was repairable, but wouldn’t repair the car as it was modified (insured as a modifed car too) so this is why they offered £1200 for me to fix the door. So in the mean time I collected some parts for the car and I got myself a door for £80 and pocketed the rest. After all that and a pervious fault accident I had earlier in that year 2014 my insurance was more then when I first ever insured the car so it stayed off the road with the mindset that I’d turbo it. SO LET THE FUN HEADACHES AND CRYING BEGIN!! So I fixed the door got myself a brand new bumper from Mr T and started my build. I ordered from America: Forged pistons(Wesico, lower compression over sized 75mm I believe ) Forged rods(Molnar H beam with ARP bolts), big and main end bearings (King race bearings), Brian crower stiffer valve springs and titanium retainers and King thrust washer/bearings. Even managed to get my hands on a Golden Eagle inlet manifold and Golden Eagle fuel rail too. Also ordered ARP bolts for the head and big and main end to go with the other goodies, Also picked up a lightened crank pulley and a Kaaz LSD too. Time to rip the engine and gearbox out ! And not for the first time as I’ve previously hydrolocked one and had to replace a engine before 😂 So the engine came out and off to the engine builders for a long time, And the gearbox off to the transmission company. Once the gearbox was delivered to the transmission company the Kaaz LSD was fitted along with new bearings and seals all round and a check of the gearset it’s self. That was sorted and all painted and ready to go. Mean while the engine was slowly coming apart and being sorted, long story short the engine took 8months or so to actually be done and finished some of that time was my fault, some was the engine builders/the machine shops etc. Less talking and more pictures of the engine!! The block got slightly bored/hooned to suit the new pistons. I couldn’t get a block guard so the engine builder suggested an old school styled way of doing the same thing but with long bolts. I’m not an engineer but I told him to do what was best and he’s done this on a few Forged VW engines he’s built for himself and on others. Weather it’s right or wrong you can decide but if something does go wrong because of that he’s happy to be responsible. He actually has a 2litre turbo VW engine 400ish BHP in an old school VW camper pickup styled truck, total animal. The block also had to be notched to accommodate the new H bean rods as the catch the block. Before notching. After notching. When he removed the crank he rang me up laughing and his quote was ‘is this a toy crank?’ Because of how small it was. He recommended having the crank dipped and hardened then polished back to size. I’m not sure where it got sent for hardening but it was sent to DY engineering to be polished back to spec. If any of you guys have been to Japfest or ever seen the liberty walk R35 GTR in a coppery colour or ever heard of Kyoto drift then DY engineering built the engines for them. Once the crank was back it was then sent to Anderson motorsport for the whole bottom assembly to be balanced: Crank, Rods, Pistons, lightened crank pulley, Fidanza lightened flywheel and clutch plate. When that all came back it was time for him to assemble the engine for me. He had a head gasket specially made for my engine it was a special multi layer styled gasket ( I’m not 100% sure exactly what it is but he did tell me once) ARP bolts went in and I was told it wasn’t a fun job to do, The head was slightly ported and polished and had new valves and my fancy valve springs fitted. And finally the engine was built and delivered to me after 8 long months. I’m sure there’s a few more bits that went into the engine that I haven’t listed. It had all new water and oil pump gunine and new rocket cover gasket kit etc. And there she is ! 😍 While the engine was getting built I fitted a roll cage and had the spare wheel well cut out and plated over. Also had to crudely plate over the sun roof as it had to be removed for the roll cage. The roll cage got delieved and I wasn’t ready for the task ahead. Straight away I started wrong and got the cage painted before even test fitting and marking out stuff. But it did look good ! Me and a friend managed to get it test fitted and we sat the feet where they needed to go so we marked that out and I got myself ready to wire wheel and grind miles of seam sealer and paint off the car. I employed a friend of a friend who spends his lift welding cars endlessly. Also he’s fitted about 5 other OMP cages mainly to BMWs but he’s had cosworths etc anything RWD so when he came and seen my car he called my car wrong wheel drive!. The holes you can see are from a previous half cage that was famously in Danny means Jun cammed T sport and now it lives inside Rob Fish supercharged T sport maybe even more famous now. All the hole got covered and welded over, so we started on removing the spare wheel well. Had to clean up all the paint around the spare wheel well and drill out all the spot welds on the back of the car along the rear bumper bar. Isn’t easy watching your car get chopped up but it’s totally worth it! I don’t have any pictures but the rear chassis legs got braced and welded under the car. The roof got plated over like I said but it isn’t pretty. Once all that was sorted I had the plates welded into the car finally and I painted the floor and roof satin black and had a strut brace welded across the rear two strut towers. That took forever and a lot of paint but seemed to work well. Time for the cage to be fitted for the last time! Cage went in and the dash followed. Again I didn’t take any pictures but I modified the bracket for the steering column so I could get the steering wheel to go lower than standard. Seats and steering wheel went in ages. I had a life line weld on steering wheel box welded onto the steering column, I had the slug machined out centre and just enough so it pushed on over the old spline then had it drilled and managed to hammer a split pin through the middle and then welded together. So the steering wheel is fully detachable. while all that was going on I took delivery on some extra bits I didn’t think I’d get my hands on. Got hold of a carbon fibre bonnet, carbon skinned boot lid and a set of Phase 2 Toyota LED lights, lighted alternator pulley and a set of Okada plasma direct ignition coils.
  24. Dec’s PH2 T sport

    Ended up selling the gold wheels and buying some lighter ones. Can’t wait to hit the track now
  25. We're back?!

    Thank you Aidan for all the work you have done to get the website up and running again.
  26. Yaris 1.5 T-sport Wanted

    Looking to buy a 1.5 Yaris T sport, preferably in the North. Not ridiculous milage please. Email SamWilsonRacing@gmail.com
  27. Store

    So anyway guys its good to be back, But I would like to buy some stickers for my 'new' car, but cant seem to get anything on store. Are they still available and if so how do I access/find them. I liked the 'subtle' old ones but anything would do. Cheers Colin
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