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About AtleX

  • Birthday 07/08/1986
  1. Alex Track TSport

    LED lights are finally in! And, since getting the car back on the road I was annoyed by my seating position. I'm sitting in a Sabelt GT140 (FIA) bucket seat mounted on a OMP (FIA) frame via LTEC (FIA) sidemounts. However, the sidemounts couldn't be bolted directly to the frame because the seat it quite wide (so is my big beautiful behind). So, from steel I fabricated some adapters between the sidemounts and the frame. That fitted perfectly, besides the seat being positioned too far to the centre of the car. It was about five centimetres off-centre from the horn button in the steering wheel. Very annoying and it made me sit weird in the seat so I never sat quite comfortable. So, I unbolted the seat and removed the sidemounts and adapters and frame from the car. I originally planned to drill new holes in the frame to move the adapters a bit, but it turned out I could just swap them around. So, everything bolted together and in the car (I *hate* long fine-threaded bolts in tight spaces!!!!) and now I sit perfectly.
  2. Little Yaris Turbo-Sport

    Are you running the Prius pistons on the stock ECU?
  3. Alex Track TSport

    Sooo, three months since the last real drive. Had a couple of issues, unfortunately. First, my TRD LSD gearbox died, as told earlier. I then fitted a stock TSport gearbox, went to MOT and didn't get a pass because the front right wheel bearing was making very faint noises. Crap! So, I ordered new wheel bearings (both sides, no point in replacing only one) and went to work. That was like a month from hell. Everything was so stuck and tight. I couldn't get the axles out of the hubs (that was also a major problem with replacing the gearbox) but when the axles are still in, you can't take of the castle nut holding the hub to the arm. Also, the steering knuckles wouldn't come out. I tried everything. Spreader forks, crow bars, heat (lots of it!), cursing, praying, sacrificing a goat, asking nicely, nothing helped. I ordered a ball joint spreader, wrecked that on the first try (weak aluminum). Ordered a more expensive one, that one tore in half when trying to put too much pressure on it. Desperately bought an expensive one (diamonds, gold plated titanium, the works) and that finally worked. On to the problem with the axles. I saw only one solution: Violence, and lots of it. Went to the hardware store, got the biggest hammer I could find, pulled the hub to the outside as far as I could and gave it a mighty blow. No dice. Gave up after a few more tries, drove back to the hardware store and exchanged it for a sledgehammer. The lady behind the counter smiled knowingly.... So, back to the garage. One big swing with my shiny new sledgehammer and got one axle out. Other side, same result. I now have a sledgehammer I will never use again after only two blows, but at least I can move on with my hubs. Removing the castle nuts holding the hubs to the arms was a breeze now. Just didn't bother with taking the rusty pins out, but put a breaker bar on the nut and put 1000 nm on it so the pins broke. Took of the nuts, removed the hubs with my ball joint splitter and cleaned the threads with thread cleaning nuts. Job done. I don't have a press so brought the hubs to a very reputable engine rebuilder shop. Porsche certified, working on 356 and a blower Bentley when I dropped my stuff of. They asked 80 euros for removing the old bearings, pressing in my new ones and also fit new anchor plates. Fair price, but little did they know... I dropped them off early one Thursday morning and they said they would be done the next day. Great! That would give me the whole weekend to get everything back together. Well, that turned out to be a bit too optimistic. They called me on Friday. The bearings wouldn't budge and the Toyota dealer needed more time to deliver the anchor plates But, I finally got my hubs back on monday. New bearings, new anchor plates, etc. I picked them up, drove straight to my garage and went to work. Some sanding, cleaning, masking etc, and spray painted them. Before: After: I used heat-resistant paint for stuff like coal heaters and woodburners for this. It's durable, has a nice finish and it's not super hard because normally it has to expand with heat so it can take a beating. And more importantly, I still had two cans so I didn't have to buy new paint. I just put two quick layers on it, with ten minutes between them, and then waited another 30 minutes for the next two layers. The next day I put the final two layers on and so far it's holding on nicely. Job well done, I think. So, when the hubs were ready I replaced my old steering knuckles with new ones. I attached the hubs to the arms with new nuts and pins, put the axles back in (lubricated this time) and refitted the brake calipers. I also replaced my DS2500 pads with new Carbone Lorraine CL5+ pads and lowered the front another five mm. That went smoothly overall. Finally, a good day of successful wrenching! So, retry for the MOT. I already had a fine for an expired MOT so I was a bit in a hurry. Luckily my Toyota dealer had a spot the next week and it passed with flying colours! But with one notice. A bad one. "You know your gearbox is leaking badly, right?" O no. The mechanic wins the price for the best understatement of the week. It wasn't just a leak, you could shower in gearbox oil underneath my car. I lost almost every drop on the four kilometres from my garage to the dealership. Everything, like litterly everything, was covered in gearbox oil so we couldn't figure out where it was coming from. So, they filled the box with new oil and I drove back to my garage. So, back on the axle stands. I cleaned everyhing thoroughly and let it sit for a few days. Hopefully more would leak out so I could see where it was coming from. Went back a couple of days later, saw an impressive puddle underneath the car and it was clearly coming from the axle seals. So, I called in some help and we yanked the axles out. One of the seals was absolutely shredded and the other one was on the verge of giving up. It turned out that when the old LSD gearbox died it ruined one of the axles too. Luckily I had some new seals and replacement axles already in my spare parts boxes so we replaced them both. I put new gearbox oil in the box and let it sit for a while to see if it would still leak. Luckily it didn't, so last Saturday I wanted to take it out for a drive. I put the wheels back on, got the car back on the ground, hopped in, turned the key and...Nothing. Battery dead. Because the battery is in the passenger compartment I have a Varley Redtop 25 and they take draining too far very badly. So, I avoid short drives and regularly trickle charge it when the car is standing still for more than a few days. So, no idea how that happened. But, I tried charging it for a full day and Saturday evening the car started. Went out for a ten minute drive and it felt good! Except, the ABS warning light stayed on. So, back to the garage for the usual wires-in-OBD-port voodoo. Turned out that my front left ABS sensor died. You know, the one that enters the engine buy in the most inconvenient place ever with not enough room and way too many cables and wires running in that spot. Luckily I had a spare, but it still took me an hour to get it fitted. I resetted the fault code and started the car to see if the error would come back. And nope, the light turned off after starting the car, like it should. So I then took it out for a proper drive. An hour of blasting through country roads and over the dikes we're famous for. Beautiful weather, deserted roads, finally a good running car. Life was good. And, somewhere between all this I managed to fit the Cusco underbrace I ordered from Japan months ago. Edd sells replicas of these, but I could get this one for about 50 euros including shipping. What a steal! So, verdict. You really notice the effects of this brace. If you can get one, I'd buy one! It really tightens up the front end, but it will slightly increase NVH. That doesn't bother me, it's a track car after all, but it's something you will notice. But the handling improves so much, that more than offsets the downsides. Also, the new CL5+ brake pads. Wow. I went from stock to DS2500 last year and that was already an improvement, but these is on a whole other level. Cold they're a bit worse than stock but not dangerously so. But as soon as there some heat in them, woah! I wouldn't fit them on a street car because every pedestrian, cyclist and dog hates the loud high pitched noise they make, but for spirited driving and track duty they're awesome. We also ran them on an endurance racer for 24H back in 2015 and we did the test days, free practice, qualifying and the race itself with a single set of pads and had 4mm over at the end so they're durable too. Now, moving on. Still need to fit the rear LED lights and Project Oil Cooler is next.
  4. Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

    Regarding your radiator troubles, aren't their any companies building custom rads in the UK. I looked into that in the past and I could spec everything, from material to sizes to fitting locations.
  5. Do you know the specs of your oil cooler? I can't find them in this thread.
  6. Alex Track TSport

    I'm not sure yet. Probably just a small Mocal one on a sandwichplate with a thermostat since I'm not going to boost it. I prefer a longer cooler over more rows because you don't lose as much oil pressure with that, but I'm not sure about the mounting points yet.
  7. Alex Track TSport

    Next up: I wrecked my TRD LSD gearbox, replaced that with a different one and that's ruined after less than 20 KM too. This is driving me nuts, so I need a fix for this so I don't spend days replacing a gearbox every couple of kilometres; Fit LED read lights (thanks Lani!); Move the bucket seat slightly to the left (more to the driver side door) because it's not really right in front of the steering wheel; Fit a steering wheel with a thicker rim; Roll cage (Dutch KNAF spec); Oil cooler; Coolant temperature gauge.
  8. So, I previously had a 2000 Yaris 1.3. Three doors, factory navi, factory bodykit, factory alloys, uprated suspension, aircon, electric mirrors (+folding), etc. I loved that car! It was my first car, drove it all over Europe and had it for seven years. In fact, I'd still have it but some idiots set it on fire just for fun and giggles. Luckily, I already wanted to start a second Yaris project. I did some laps on the Nurburgring with my daily Yaris but I wanted something faster and go all out on it. So, the search began. Three doors, no aircon, no accident history, silver or thunder grey or red and as stock as possible. And then I found one, a 2001 TSport in thunder grey. Barely run in with only 220000 kilometres on the odometer! I put it in my garage, stripped the interior and then two weeks later my daily Yaris burned to the ground. So, I had to buy two cars in three weeks. Anyway, the TSport. It spent way too many months in my garage but when it saw daylight again it had the following speclist. Exterior Rear wiper delete; Front fog light delete (holes currently blocked with real carbon fibre, want to put brake cooling in it). Interior Fully stripped. Rear bench out, carpet out, rear cards out, headliner removed, stocks seats out, radio removed, clock removed; Holes in dashboard blocked with real carbon fibre; Sabelt GT140 driver side bucket seat (FIA); LTEC driver side four point harness (FIA); LTEC steering wheel (with horn) on boss (no snap-off, because Nurburgring); Battery moved to passenger seat spot (dry battery, mounted with appropriate hardware, terminal covers, main resetable fuse directly at the battery). Chassis BC Racing BR coilovers with 5KG/mm springs in the front and 4KG/mm rear springs. I had this set custom made a couple of years ago before they sold official Yaris sets. Sold it after a while and bought it back for this project; SuperSprint front swaybar bushings and droplinks; Cusco front subframe brace; Whiteline rear ARB; TRD top rubbers for the rear shocks; TTE 15x6,5 wheels; NS2R 195/50/15 tyres all around (threadwear 180); Front strutbrace. Brakes Black Diamond grooved discs (front) Ferodo discs (rear) Carbone Lorraine CL5+ pads (front) Ferodo pads (rear) Ferodo uprated DOT4 fluid Driveline Stock 1NZ-FE 1.5 litre engine; NGK plugs under new coils; Larger 50mm throttlebody; Pipercross foamfilter directly on the throttle body via a MAF adapter; VDO oil temperature sensor via filter sandwich plate (gauge in dashboard); TRD LSD in gearbox; Bigger radiator; Revotec electric fan; Custom catchtanks for oil and coolant; Stock exhaust with TTE 90mm backbox. And of course a lot other things. New clutch, new wheel bearings, new anchor plates for the front brakes, lots and lots of new bolts & nuts etc. I also cleaned and painted a lot of parts when building this car. But enough words, time for pictures!