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Lewis’ Yaris Tsport Turbo

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Hi guys and girls! My names Lewis and I’ve been a member of the forum for a good few years but never really posted anything mainly just been nosey and bought stuff off the market place.

I though I’d make a build post as best I can for people who asked about the car on Facebook and for my own personal document.

Car started off as a completely standard 2003 Toyota Yaris T sport phase 1, my first car ! I had it on the road for about 3-4ish years and did the normal things wheels coil overs etc.

Unfortunally one night coming home from work someone drove straight into the passanager door. Totally wrote off the door and dented the inner seal. 

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So the accident happened 5 days before my insurance renewal. Annoyingly the insurance company Elephant didn’t know there arse from there elbow ended up chasing the wrong insurance company who were at fault. After 12 months of back and forth and endless phone calls (and the car being off the road as it’s wasnt insure-able no one would touch me with a unsettled claim) I finally got a pay out. They paid £1200 for a door and for me to get it painted, the man on the phone said about writing the car off and I agreed thinking I’d get more money. Few days later they contacted me saying they weren’t willing to write the car off as the car was repairable, but wouldn’t repair the car as it was modified (insured as a modifed car too) so this is why they offered £1200 for me to fix the door. So in the mean time I collected some parts for the car and I got myself a door for £80 and pocketed the rest. 

After all that and a pervious fault accident I had earlier in that year 2014 my insurance was more then when I first ever insured the car so it stayed off the road with the mindset that I’d turbo it. SO LET THE FUN HEADACHES AND CRYING BEGIN!!

So I fixed the door got myself a brand new bumper from Mr T and started my build.

I ordered from America: Forged pistons(Wesico, lower compression over sized 75mm I believe ) Forged rods(Molnar H beam with ARP bolts), big and main end bearings (King race bearings), Brian crower stiffer valve springs and titanium retainers and King thrust washer/bearings. Even managed to get my hands on a Golden Eagle inlet manifold and Golden Eagle fuel rail too.

Also ordered ARP bolts for the head and big and main end to go with the other goodies, Also picked up a lightened crank pulley and a Kaaz LSD too.

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Time to rip the engine and gearbox out ! And not for the first time as I’ve previously hydrolocked one and had to replace a engine before 😂

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So the engine came out and off to the engine builders for a long time, And the gearbox off to the transmission company.

Once the gearbox was delivered to the transmission company the Kaaz LSD was fitted along with new bearings and seals all round and a check of the gearset it’s self.

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That was sorted and all painted and ready to go. Mean while the engine was slowly coming apart and being sorted, long story short the engine took 8months or so to actually be done and finished some of that time was my fault, some was the engine builders/the machine shops etc. Less talking and more pictures of the engine!!

The block got slightly bored/hooned to suit the new pistons. I couldn’t get a block guard so the engine builder suggested an old school styled way of doing the same thing but with long bolts. I’m not an engineer but I told him to do what was best and he’s done this on a few Forged VW engines he’s built for himself and on others. Weather it’s right or wrong you can decide but if something does go wrong because of that he’s happy to be responsible. He actually has a 2litre turbo VW engine 400ish BHP in an old school VW camper pickup styled truck, total animal.

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The block also had to be notched to accommodate the new H bean rods as the catch the block.

Before notching.

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After notching.

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When he removed the crank he rang me up laughing and his quote was ‘is this a toy crank?’ Because of how small it was. He recommended having the crank dipped and hardened then polished back to size.

I’m not sure where it got sent for hardening but it was sent to DY engineering to be polished back to spec. If any of you guys have been to Japfest or ever seen the liberty walk  R35 GTR in a coppery colour or ever heard of Kyoto drift then DY engineering built the engines for them.

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Once the crank was back it was then sent to Anderson motorsport for the whole bottom assembly to be balanced: Crank, Rods, Pistons, lightened crank pulley, Fidanza lightened flywheel and clutch plate. 

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When that all came back it was time for him to assemble the engine for me.

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He had a head gasket specially made for my engine it was a special multi layer styled gasket ( I’m not 100% sure exactly what it is but he did tell me once)

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ARP bolts went in and I was told it wasn’t a fun job to do, The head was slightly ported and polished and had new valves and my fancy valve springs fitted.

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And finally the engine was built and delivered to me after 8 long months. I’m sure there’s a few more bits that went into the engine that I haven’t listed. It had all new water and oil pump gunine and new rocket cover gasket kit etc.

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And there she is ! 😍

While the engine was getting built I fitted a roll cage and had the spare wheel well cut out and plated over. Also had to crudely plate over the sun roof as it had to be removed for the roll cage.

The roll cage got delieved and I wasn’t ready for the task ahead.

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Straight away I started wrong and got the cage painted before even test fitting and marking out stuff. But it did look good !0D9AEE2F-23EA-403E-8CF6-86B4C0FC4D4D.thumb.jpeg.82feb81ffbea08e1c139275122b2c36d.jpeg

Me and a friend managed to get it test fitted and we sat the feet where they needed to go so we marked that out and I got myself ready to wire wheel and grind miles of seam sealer and paint off the car.A6FC7E36-2CAE-4F35-B011-41A6E92EAAE3.thumb.jpeg.d20d1a0b32d651e932897ae9612efb10.jpeg

I employed a friend of a friend who spends his lift welding cars endlessly. Also he’s fitted about 5 other OMP cages mainly to BMWs but he’s had cosworths etc anything RWD so when he came and seen my car he called my car wrong wheel drive!.

The holes you can see are from a previous half cage that was famously in Danny means Jun cammed T sport and now it lives inside Rob Fish supercharged T sport maybe even more famous now.

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All the hole got covered and welded over, so we started on removing the spare wheel well. Had to clean up all the paint around the spare wheel well and drill out all the spot welds on the back of the car along the rear bumper bar.E28AB887-10D9-4E21-AB3F-D1555D1377E9.thumb.jpeg.057f64e37beb3bf5c32b39ef4a03913c.jpegF1B792C3-225F-4B04-BB46-ADC190370FE6.thumb.jpeg.37b863fdd9264eee934840dbaaf9a16b.jpeg5DB8F2FD-F1EA-485F-9586-07478193CE80.thumb.jpeg.e5cc140365fb097944fb6205824c90c6.jpegA242C518-5812-4447-AD56-A0318EC7FB13.thumb.jpeg.fe42e288ca42fb122eb15cbfc19952b9.jpeg1A2DF671-0D30-48B8-8C24-02AD45C21F85.thumb.jpeg.98d0f63c5e0bed4bbafa11423b6e547c.jpegC3A83F9C-D66E-4FB4-B0ED-A5B7ABCB91B0.thumb.jpeg.074b28fdc6d1ff0cd190dcf910c1a82f.jpeg

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Isn’t easy watching your car get chopped up but it’s totally worth it! I don’t have any pictures but the rear chassis legs got braced and welded under the car. The roof got plated over like I said but it isn’t pretty.

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Once all that was sorted I had the plates welded into the car finally and I painted the floor and roof satin black and had a strut brace welded across the rear two strut towers. 

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That took forever and a lot of paint but seemed to work well. Time for the cage to be fitted for the last time! 

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Cage went in and the dash followed.

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Again I didn’t take any pictures but I modified the bracket for the steering column so I could get the steering wheel to go lower than standard. Seats and steering wheel went in ages.

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I had a life line weld on steering wheel box welded onto the steering column, I had the slug machined out centre and just enough so it pushed on over the old spline then had it drilled and managed to hammer a split pin through the middle and then welded together. So the steering wheel is fully detachable.41E5FD7A-87A7-495C-9971-888D66F8B181.thumb.jpeg.9dc19f50f6dc9d4b724f07650379b017.jpeg

while all that was going on I took delivery on some extra bits I didn’t think I’d get my hands on. Got hold of a carbon fibre bonnet, carbon skinned boot lid and a set of Phase 2 Toyota LED lights, lighted alternator pulley and a set of Okada plasma direct ignition coils.709C3409-B9D4-4E38-8BB9-0BFBEB857A74.thumb.jpeg.7de1ea1524ec9a1d1ba6e180ae943a5f.jpegF7E6575D-B787-4F07-849F-322B6FD87E56.thumb.jpeg.0d686139802802fe7fad3227710c3dc4.jpeg49399F7A-75FE-4209-BF3D-04BA7D2FA33B.thumb.jpeg.9bea2c31a593620b2202ef5c4d0ab8b9.jpeg05F9004D-12B9-4C84-BF5E-E75DE40C895F.thumb.jpeg.cfe15c2b41d6f736c53b952fab9a87e8.jpeg

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Thoroughly enjoyed reading this mate! Such a mega build and ill hopefully see it in person and get a passenger lap in it one day? +1 

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Really good read this matey, Very good job and doesnt seem to be any cheap parts in sight! Good Job and keep us updated!! 

 

Where the hell did you find that carbon fibre boot!!?

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@jackkadc you’ll have to get in line ! Aha

@Zachary Gill  Thanks! it’s a carbon skinned bootlid I should’ve put that, just got carried away writing stuff up. It was originally off the orange max power HKS car then passed down, believe it or not I missed it the first time it came up for sell but couldn’t miss out on it the second time.

I’ve got loads to update yet, the car is currently in its final wiring and engine bay sorting stages and hoping to get it off for a running in map before Christmas.

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In between fittting the roll cage I dropped the front sub frame and wishbones etc cleaned up the rust and painted all of it. Front anti roll bar, 4 point underbrace and wishbone brace got powder coated ready to be fitted along with polybushes to anything that has a bush in it.

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Once it was all refitted it was time to fit the engine ! Along with inlet manifold and the first test fit of the turbo!!!

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engine and gearbox went back in a treat, the turbo manifold I’m using is a cheap cast manifold I got off eBay from Tokyo apparently and it fitted my turbo perfectly.

the inlet manifold is using an avensis throttle body it’s around 70mm. Had to have an adapter plate made to fit the throttle body to the manifold.

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made a gasket for it also have somewhere videos of the plate being made.

the clutch I used is from a glanza, competition clutch it was the only one that says it would handle a decent amount of torque as I’m not 100% sure what the final figure will be so I went over kill. 44706552-4D5F-47E5-B1E4-BBA8FB232B95.thumb.jpeg.6e82f9acc965b518acbdade72d03c61b.jpeg

Engine bay got painted black to tidy it up a bit and the battery tray got cut and shortened and the battery got moved to the rear of the car with a tiny light weight one.

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that cleared some space for me to run pipe work and whatever else. Next headache was getting a radiator to fit, I tried a civic half rad but it never sat right and I wasn’t happy with it. It’s a cheap direnza BMW 3-5 series alloy rad three times the thickness as the standard Yaris rad and a fair bit longer, but best of all it has an expansion tank built into the side.

measurement were taken before purchase, Once arrived I had to find away to mount it to the car.

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It is mounted at the bottom too and sits more or less in the standard position, also using a mishimoto slim fan to go with it.

Next was pluming it to the car so off to the local motorsport shop at castle combe with a bunch of old hoses. I came back with a few bits and a lighter wallet.

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The pipes coming off the engine block and thermostat were smaller than the hose ports in the Rad so it was a case of having different reducer sizes. It’s also using a TRD cooler thermostat from fensport.

Next headache was finding a intercooler suitable but not too big. A friend of mine has a Colt CTZ ralliart turbo and he got himself a airtec cooler that’s a direct fit to his car, I asked him nicely if I could offer it up to my car. This is the result.

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Well I couldn’t believe my luck! It has bolt holes that run in exactly the same place as the crash bar bolts on the Yaris and bolts in place perfectly. So a email to airtec and I had my own one on its way, of course it had to be yellow. And of course ebay special intercooler pipes were on there way too.

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It all arrived after a lot of faffing from airtec, not the greatest of customer services. Put it on and started to route my pipes.741EB69A-9985-49FB-ADBD-F010B88B1236.thumb.jpeg.c6e9aaee143b8c1887b37791ac05eacc.jpeg0ACF49E4-F928-4059-B838-09326AF284B9.thumb.jpeg.a8a7c9b3a5dbe95ba59658d723a81f4c.jpegAE302B94-9E4F-4AC9-8B3D-76DF32890E69.thumb.jpeg.9060abcfca9608a0a8fdcd3346de75d2.jpeg

the cooler pipe coming from the left hand side(driver side) back to the throttle body is just a long pipe that runs the length of the front end. Blue silicone pipe was all I could get for my radiator hoses with out waiting weeks and weeks and I didn’t have time so blue it is (I don’t like it) but needs must. I routed all the pipes and thought I was dead clever....until I tried to fit the front bumper and the bottom pipes off the cooler don’t fit. I ended up removing the bit hard pipes and used four 90degree bends to make a neater and tighter 180degree bend around to the connecting pipes.D9946AC2-A5D1-4E47-B8C1-EC242A869BF0.thumb.jpeg.5270faedbd59415a85ef79549dac9fea.jpeg

Looks pretty mean with out a bumper, also the oilcooler got relocated to the front and I had holes drilled in the crash bar.

A lot of the car got plumbed in while waiting for bits for the intercooler etc. The turbo I’m using is a Garrett GT2560R ballbearing turbo.

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The oil lines were made and the feed comes from the front of the engine on the oil pressure switch, I used a 3 way T peice and removed the switch all together the thread type is 1/8 NTP and it’s very common. The oil return was drilled and put into the engine block and -AN10 was used for the return as there’s no oil pressure pushing it through. The turbo has to have an restrictor in because of the oil pressure the oil pump puts out. The water lines were connected to the block and the metal feed that runs from the front to the side of the block. All lines were made with -AN fittings and braided hose.

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Cannot wait for this to be completed man. keep updating us, How much do you think this build has cost you so far? 

Any idea of what the Hp figure will be? Safe Hp and what safe PSI tubro will run?

 

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@Zachary Gill don’t count the £££ but a lot and when I update more you’ll see more cost that’s gone into it aha as for the turbo they rate it at 340-50bhp max and haven’t got a running PSI figure.

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Engine in turbo on intercooler plumbed up and turbo plumbed in its time for engine management. 

I picked a Link G4+ Fury it can do anything and everything engine wise, Also got myself a race Technology DashPro2 to go with the ECU. Had to get the Link wideband to go with the ECU and pin kit and a Link 3 bar map sensor.

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I didn’t even attempt to wire the ECU up apparently it’s pretty full on so I my auto electrician mate to do that job for me and he also did my battery relocation. 

Factory ECU out and Link wired in I had to decide where I wanted to locate my dash display.

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I finally decided to have it directly in front the steering wheel as that to me is the best place for it, I had the bracket made and welded to the dash crash bar. I’ll probably fill the empty gap with a bit of carbon fibre and make some switches or something to make use of the space.

The dash display will show oil temp/pressure water temp and boost, also fuel rpm and mph. It also has a shift light and much more.

Ive got BC BR coilovers on the car had them for a while and a white line rear ARB also the rear axle is polybushed too. The brake were upgraded previously yellow stuff pads and EBC disc and braided front lines. The brakes as they were probably wouldn’t handle the power the car should hopefully make so I looked into having custom brackets made to fit Megane brembos to the car, Unfortunately they’re massive and the way they are mounted meant I wouldn’t get a bracket made to suit 15” wheels. I found a few company’s that made big brake kits for the Yaris some to suit 15” some not to suit 15” I picked a kit from HI-SPEC seen them around they seems a better bet than K sport personally. They are a budget kit as far as brakes go but they came with two 4 piston calipers, 285mm floating two piece rotors and braided front brake lines mounting brackets and Ferodo DS2500 brake pads. Of course they had to be yellow! 

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Along with fitting the brake kit I also replaced the front wheel bearings and cleaned and painted the hubs. The wheels didn’t fit over the brakes, what a surprise. Ended up using 20mm spacers and 15mm on the back to bring the wheels out, H&R spacers and the brakes cleared but not the arches don’t, I’ve destroyed the front arches by rolling them JDM style just for the moment so it’ll roll and clear. I’m planning on running a wider tyre too so when the car gets painted I’ll get the arches flared or something to suit the wheels/tyres.0687DB04-8813-4355-A921-1BB858124677.thumb.jpeg.fa02036b8a6716725cde9ce058efeeab.jpeg6CEFD91D-ADC7-4AF4-962C-03ADA66CA444.thumb.jpeg.015e359955599febb15c565274692abb.jpeg

Pictures don’t really do it much justice the wheels stick out a fair bit, I’m planning on using 205/50/15 AD08R tyres as I loved my 195/50/15 they grip well in all weathers.

Back to the engine bay and I had AN fittings put into the rocker cover so I could use them for my oil catch tank.

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I used the old air con pipe bracket bit to make a bracket to hold my catch tank then made up some braided line with AN fittings to connect it all together.

One of the things I did have to fight with was the gear linkage bracket that holds the cables on the gearbox, The cables come right in front of the turbo compressor side for the air filter.1D27A9D2-EBDF-43FB-8B71-53C24AC87D11.thumb.jpeg.a8153fbd1a30ca9bd29768823c11c342.jpeg

So I played about with it and figured out I could create just enough space to clear a 90 degree silicone pipe if I rotated the bracket 90 degrees.

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Just about clears enough to sort out piping for an air filter. So I took it to work and got the bracket cut and welded and a support put in place to stop the flex.

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It got cut and welded to see what it looks like on a gearbox, Seemed fine so had it welded and painted.

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Not great welding but it wasn’t me, it’ll hold for what I want. I fitted it to the car and the cables routed fine and selection is good too with a hyper sport shortshifter. 

Now the linkage system was sorted I could route myself an air filter. It’s hard to see but the pipe closest to the oil catch tank is the air filter pipe, it has a 90 degree silicone hose to another 90 degree solid pipe to a reducer pipe to a RAMair filter.A39E749F-73DF-44D9-A00F-8A3F10C54EBF.thumb.jpeg.75fbc61210791adb56a90ece03c7b61b.jpeg

The RAM air filter is pretty big I can’t fully remember the actual size but says it’s suitable for 300bhp apparently, It sits behind the passenger front light.

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Everything sits fairly okay, it is messy but there isn’t a great deal I’m willing to do about that, function over form in my opinion.

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Edited by Lewis_UK
Misspelt words

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Not really a lot to update on lately everything’s gone but slow because of Christmas and life. I’ve managed to get the car booked in for an exhaust to be made the first weekend of Jan and hopefully fingers cross transport the car down to get it’s running in map and the dash set up. Going from the exhaust fabricators to the mappers on the same day fingers crossed.

Have started some finishing up bits to the car, I’ve brought some new headlights (thanks Jack) for pointing me in the right direction. I’m currently in the middle of painting the insides black. 

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Need to finish them off and reseal them up. Also had the final sensors wired into the ECU and managed to plumb them in(oil temp and pressure and turbo oil feed).

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Getting all that to fit in one bit took some thinking and making sure all the fittings were the correct size and correct for the engine block. It’s all hidden under the massive inlet manifold so you can hardly see it, doesn’t look too messy. Had the auto electrician wire it all in for me ready.

Few bits that need doing before it goes for an exhaust and mapping.

• Bolt the rear of the roll cage down to the rear tubs

• Double check all wheel bolts/nuts Hub nuts and track rod ends etc.

• Fit new lights.

• Drill holes in the dash for the display and mount the display, Tidy wires.

• Clean the car down wash it off inside and out.

• Get a box of spares ( coolant, brake fluid etc) ready for the mappers.

Planning to have this all done before we transport it, Somethings more important than others.

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That sir, is a quality, quality build and I take my hat off to you. A breath of fresh air from the dross that’s being labelled as “project” these days.

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@Earpl cheers man !

Managed to get replacement headlights from Milo because I ruined the paint on the new ones I bought so cheers dude, I didn’t have time to sort them out. I managed to drill holes in the dash and mount my dash display and wire it up.

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I’ve got to clean it up and put some grommets in but it all works ready to be set up. Finally got round to making brackets and mounting my oil cooler and bolting it down too. E421D23F-5CDE-458C-9EEC-0DD4962A44F8.thumb.jpeg.fbd4ce4ae0ef0bd9047b1a8f66c5f634.jpeg

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Looks cramped at the front now but I think it looks meaner. I had to higher the car to get it on the back of the recovery truck and even then it wasn’t enough, Edds underbrace hit the bed of the truck so we had to use planks of wood. We finally got it in and we were set to take it to have an exhaust made !CF2B3907-D069-4757-94DE-86BC1DF821E4.thumb.jpeg.d6e68d5f4b8f5cf1b459ac3e722fc1d8.jpeg

So we dropped it down the following morning and the fabricator basically said no chance to using my V band mount I had already bolted into the turbo. This meant I had to have a flange made and go from there, He said about a week to have a stainless flange made (gutted because I was hoping to take the car straight to the mappers) anyway I had no choice let them get in with it. I wanted 3 inch exhaust off the turbo but I was asking a lot from the really tight space behind the turbo bulk head and everything else. We agreed to have 2.5inch off the turbo to 3 inch to a mid box then to a back box. I get a phone call to say my car will be done about a week later, they made the turbo elbow with a collector to a 2.5 inch pipe to 3 inch pipe and the rest as they said. I asked to have a 3 inch tail pipe just out of the pipe they used for the exhaust to keep it neat and tidy. Pretty happy with the work that was done looks fairly tidy and they fitted my wide band sensor in too (infinity exhaust Bristol).

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So today I’ve dropped the car off at GB enterprises and he’s going to get the car started and a base map etc so I can run the engine in, workshop was full of evos and Subaru’s mainly and a 2500bhp dyno cell ! So next week I’ll be waiting nervously for a phone call to see how it’s gone !! Fingers crossed !

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Mapping didn’t go to plan :( apparently some of my ECU was incorrectly wired my dash display was wired backwards I’ve got an oil leak and my radiator wouldn’t flow any coolant.

Managed to get the car started and running very slightly but obviously couldn’t be ran because of the coolant issues etc.

So home it came and been scratching heads about the coolant situation, changed water pumps checked thermostats etc. Anyway after pissing about with it I swapped out the huge BMW radiator for the spare civic half rad that hardly fits in the engine bay, filled the car up with coolant and if by magic everything flows hot heater everything !

Now I’ve got to figure out a good way to mount and route pipes because everything I’ve done was just chucked on to see if it works.

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Filled up with Evans waterless coolant. After looking under the car I’ve discovered 3 oil leaks, 2 from different parts of the oil cooler and 1 from the oil return from the turbo they’re very very minor and just seeping.

Radiator needs mounted oil leaks sorting back to the dyno in a few weeks hopefully!

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Managed to get the civic radiator mounted and sitting correctly, It took a great deal of effort because anything you tend to do on this car causes a chain reaction and you’ve got to change/modify something else.

I had to turn my throttle body 90 degrees so the throttle body wheel/the bit the cable runs through pointed up toward the bonnet, Instead of facing the radiator to create a tad more bit of space for the hoses.

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Gave me chance to picture the custom plate I had machined to suit the huge throttle body everything machined to match. I also has to swap round the blank and the map sensor vacuum pipes because the map sensor piping is wider than the black and was running the throttle body wheel.

I even managed to grind a lot of metal out the front to give the intercooler a bit more room so I can sit it further back to stop it fouling the bumper.

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Its really rough currently but I’ll clean it up and re paint it to stop rust etc. Once I got the throttle body out the way I routed the hoses and drilled a extra hole for the mounting point on my rad, Once I was happy it was back out with the grinder and had to cut the radiator support/slam panel to suit.

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Again very rough but I’ll be cleaning that up this week/next week, Fitted the fan to the back of the rad also. While I had the whole front end off I managed to track down 2 of the 3 oil leaks I’ve got 2 being in the oil cooler. I stripped the cooler and lines down cleaned re fitted and on one line took the fitting off trimmed the pipe because the insert had slip causing the leak and re sealed. Fingers crossed that stays dry now.

Now the slam panel was cut I found a after market mount for the civic radiator and genuine Honda bush to go with the alloy mount. I drilled that into the support and vent it to shape to suit my car and called that radiator mounted ! I had to fit a over flow tank to the radiator very similar to the standard Yaris rad, So I got myself a ebay special tank and mounted it and ran a hose to it. 

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All plumbed and mounted up I filled it with Evans waterless coolant and fired her up to bleed the rad, Radiator bled and kept constant temperature everything got hot in the correct places.

After all my efforts I tried to close the bonnet to find out the rad is sat too far forward and the square latch on the bonnet hit the radiator, Out came the angle grinder and off it came! I’ve got aero catches to fit very soon.

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Last thing I did was fit the harnesses 6 point Schroth Clubsport II.

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Obviously mounted on the harness bar ! These are new harnesses but I had exactly the same ones before and already had all the mounting points and spreader plates installed before hand.

Ive still got a oil leak coming from my oil return most likely to be very similar problem to the oil cooler leak. I don’t have a vice at home so that doesn’t help.

 

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So this weekend didn’t go as well as I hoped, I managed to fix one oil leak from the oil cooler that I thought I fixed before.

The oil return pipe is still leaking/weeping it hardly leaks anything but eventually builds enough oil to cause it to drop some over time. The AN fitting as been modified to create room behind, They’re 2 reasons why it could be leaking 1. It’s not sealed with the copper washer 2. It’s not done up tight enough to crush the copper washer.

Tightening up the fitting isn’t that easy as it need to stay level (it’s a 90 degree bend) and can’t have it pointing up because it’ll disrupt flow. Holding the fitting and tightening it is difficult with limited space. When I get sometime this week hopefully I’ll bring home a pry bar and use that to leaver against the fitting. Forgot to take pictures of the return pipe 🙈but I did manage to get a picture of the 3 inch exhaust under the car.

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I did manage to fit areocatchs to the carbon bonnet that was pretty scary and time consuming. I had the bonnet machine polished by a friend of mine because the lacquer is awful.

Before.

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Midway.

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After.

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Bonnet looks amazing and feels so smooth, We clay barred the whole bonnet then used 3/4 different mop heads and 2 different compounds. Then sealed it with a wax.

First I marked out where I wanted the catches to sit.

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Then I measured the different lengths and widths to try and get it as square as possible then I drew round the template.

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Once I measured and drew on both sides I measured every way possible to make sure everything was simetrical and lever and even. Also had to make sure the crossing point centre was far enough out to meet the middle of the light support for the pin to fit. Got my old man out with his 6 meter level to help too just to double check.

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Once I was happy I drilled thought the centre line of the cross that was in the middle of the cut out shape to make a guide for the pin. Once the pin had a marker I started to cut the shape out with a dremel. Once most of the shape was cut I ground it back with a sanding bit for the dremel.

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Once the shape was cut I had to cut the inner skin to to allow the backing plate to fit behind. 

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Test fit and everything clears I marked the 6 holes ready to drill and did the other side as well.

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Holes drilled and same for the other side I peeled the tape off ready to bolt up.

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All bolted up fine and had to cut the pins that go through the catches to length that took a little while to get that correct. The right side/passenger side needs a tiny bit of the rubber to make it flush with the wing but that’s a easy job.

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Hi fella I'm enjoying watching your project ,I see your got rear led lights ,I  would like to have these too,could you let me know where to buy and how much to pay for a pair,cheers from Grant.

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@wobblyman I got mine from eBay someone listed them @lani100 is the dude to speak to!

 

***UPDATE****

I replaced the rear disc and pads on the car because they’ve basically died from rust. Got some cheap Mtec disc and some new yellow stuff pads.

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Also had the rear lights sorted out and wired in the correct place with reverse light in the clusters and both fogs in the bumper, SMD slight strips in the back bumper for number plate lights.

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Not a great picture but you get the idea.

 

And I ever fitted my new front number plate too.

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Took the Yaris back to be mapped after fixing a few little teething problems we had with the car. I waited about 6 weeks for my booking 14th of April to be back in for mapping and setting some more of the dash display up.

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Well excited when I dropped it off could’nt wait to hear back. He did say when I dropped it off he was a bit behind so he couldn’t actually get it on the rolling road until 2 weeks time.

The car got strapped in and ran up on the dyno spend about a hour tuning the car making sure everything was correct AFRs etc because it’s never actually really ran.

He was mapping the car up to 4K checking fuelling from 3k-4K and the engine cut out at 3400ish RPM just stopped like it ran out of fuel. He actually had a device that allows him to listen to inside the engine while tuning for detonation and you can hear when things fail. He said everything sounded perfect until it stopped and it gave no reason or any sound it just stopped.

Rollers slow to a stop, tried to start the car and the engine turns over as if you’ve got no spark plugs in the engine. Checks compression of the engine and it has 0 compression across all 4 cylinders, bore scope comes out and it doesn’t look like there’s any damage no holes in pistons etc but did notice on cylinder 1 and 2 there was about a 1P sized bit of water on both cylinders. There possibly could’ve been some on 3 and 4 but that could’ve been pushed out while trying to start the car.

That was a awful news to receive, so we’ve picked the car back up and it’s now back at mine and I’ve yet to even dig into what’s happened, sounds like a head gasket fail but currently no motivation to do anything about it.

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Ive spoken to the person who built my engine and he’s going to come help remove the head and inspect and we’ll go from there but it’s a bad situation to be in as the mapper will blame the engine builder and the engine builders going to blame the mapper. I’ll probably be stuck with the bill.

 

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Oh noo great build why must something like this happen. Keep your head up mate! she will be amazing once done.

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We managed to strip the head and front cover on my drive way while we looked for a reason I ended up with 16 bent valves. Unfortunately I didn’t take too many pictures of this.

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We inspected the pistons for damage and they were okay thankfully only a tiny little mark evenly on all 4 in 4 places.

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The engine builder said it won’t cause any problems etc and it’s ever so minor but really annoying. Anyway before we took the head and chain off we checked timing marks and figured out that on the cam timing it was spot on but in the crank the piston was at bottom dead centre, very odd. Head went off to be inspected and rebuilt new head gasket ordered etc. 2 days later he returned with my head fully re built and new gaskets we bolted it back in with the ARP bolts 95NM per each head bolt ! Went to time the engine and obviously the crank timing was out, gutted.

So it’s time to remove the engine, very annoyed about that because I really wanted it to not have to come out.

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A lot of stuff had to come out just to get it to this stage, unbolting the exhaust manifold with the turbo attached is a total nightmare. I held the exhaust turbo and manifold all together off my strut brace with a few cable ties. It would’ve taken hours to remove them on their own.

The engine builder came round with his engine crane and helped me lift the engine out the car.

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Engine out and we took it to his workshop and inspected the crank pulley that runs the chain. We got a 2 legged puller and put it on the sprocket then got a 1/2 inch ratchet and we wound the pulley off the crank with 5 turns by hand!!!!!

Off came the pulley and that was the cause of my problems it span on the crank threw it all out of time and smashed all the valves. Really really bad design by Toyota the sprocket is friction welded/heat srunk onto the crank with no wood ruff key or anything to keep it pressed up against it.

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There is no key way on the sprocket and no cut out on the crank for a wood ruff key. Now loads 1nz’s last hundreds of thousands of miles especially lots of abuse and I’ve never hear of one going before. Especially the N/A engine before mine got rebuild I gave it utter death aha. We think that having the crank hardened effected that sprocket, I believe the crank is heated and dipped in a chemical/oil and we think that the sprocket expanded but never srank back down to size. 

We heat srank a new sprocket on and had to make all the timing marks up and get it on in the correct place. We then took the engine to an engineer who rally’s a mark1/2 escort with a Vauxhall 2 litre red top engine and builds custom motorbike frames for a living. He wouldn’t allow me to take any pictures in his garage/workshop he was very protective, Anyway he welded the sprocket on in 3 places more like tacks with his mega fancy welder. Welding it wasn’t the way I wanted to go but I believe I didn’t have much choice.

Back to the workshop to fit the chain and tensioner back in and out the front cover on. We also modified the chain tensioner so that is only retracts a little bit once the oil pressure is gone with a spot we made inside the tensioner just as a fail safe.

Then we dropped the engine home and got it on the mounts and I spent all Sunday with a friend of mine putting it all back and starting the car and getting massively sun burnt, oops.

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Back in and running but I’ve got a weird idling hunting issue, it’s not consistent and doesn’t happen all the time I’ve checked everything could possibly ignition timing takes a while to start. 

While I was stripping the bits off the engine I took the gear cable bracket back off after measuring some bits and got my work mate to remake it for me. I cut the silicone joiner down to give more room too.

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isn’t pretty but it works and clears the silicone hose and doesn’t rub anything or squash the hose. Also selects better and returns to neutral better.

I made a heat shield and covered it in the gold reflective heat tape to help prevent the brake and clutch pipes getting super hot from the turbo.

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Thats as far as I got currently, I’m hoping to MOT and insure the car in the coming weeks and get some miles on the car after I’ve sorted the idling/possible ignition timing and my dash display needs to be corrected as that was never finished because it blew up.

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Posted (edited)

I managed to bump into Grant at GBE at JDM Combe and he reckons my idling issue is down to the idle control not set up correctly/due to the changes me made after the engine failure. So for the time being I’m not going to worry about that, But I’ve had to readdress the cooling issue. Also had to buy a new gearbox diff seal and a new oilcooler and lines ! Getting bored of spending money now 😂

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So I’ve ditched the civic half rad because for whatever reason it wasn’t cooling the engine it kept creeping up and up in temperature. So I’ve got a full size EP3 civic type R rad from mishimoto, let the fitting ball ache commence.

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measured up and bent up some aluminium drilled some holes and managed to mount one side.

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Same again for the other side. I even ground out a bit of metal and messed about with other bits to get the rad to sit where I wanted it too.

radiator mounted.

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Soon figured out the bonnet wouldn’t shut because of the radiator cap.

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A tad crud but it fits, had to cut a square out of the skin of the bonnet but it shouts lovely.

Everything clears and fits time to makes the hoses fit. The bottom hose the standard fits but needed trimming down. The top hoses are made up of different ones from the BMW rad so I made them fit with some trimming too. All plumbed in ! But no pictures.

I also installed two 12 inch mishimoto slim fans to the rad and had my auto electrician wire them in. I know that’s a dead easy job but he has everything to do it in 2 minutes instead of me struggling😂

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Next problem, Oil cooler lines are too short and when I removed one of the fittings the oil cooler broke. On the oil cooler where you attach the fittings there’s a pressed on nut with a thread on top, when I removed my fitting the pressed on nut/thread span with the fitting so that was the end of my mocal cooler.

So I got myself another one ! This time a black one. 

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Abit more stealth this time. Spent today sorting that out and making everything go back nicely and tie up everything as neatly as I could.

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Sized up all the lines and remade them refitting and refitted the radiator, intercooler and oilcooler in their correct places.

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All fits again and looking a bit nice, perfer the full size rad over the half rad. Think the half rad made it look cheap. Alway has to cut some more of the slam panel and bent it to make it clear and fit around the new rad. Next was the overflow bottle I forgot about🙈

So I’m running out of room but managed to squeeze it down the side of the rad and chassis leg.

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Jublee holding it on through a gap in the metal, doesn’t rattle or more so it’s staying there.

Also fitted a new drive shaft seal drained and refilled the gearbox oil. No pictures because no one wants to see that boring stuff.

Back to the radiator, filled and bled the radiator seems to be okay drove the car up and down the road but literally for 2 minutes once it was up to temperature. Gauge seems to stay with in a few degrees instead of slowly creeping up so hopefully fingers crossed it’s cured it.

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Even actually got the bumper to sit half correctly, hoping not to take it off for a while 😂

As you seen I received a trip computer delete from Josh in Ireland ! Cheers dude.

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Came with some extras and at his request I shall look after his spider.

3 reasons I wanted a trip delete.

1. Tiny bit of weight saving aha

2. My trip doesn’t actually work after having the stand alone installed.

3. Wanted somewhere to hide my turbo timer. (They’re pretty pointless but I managed to get a genuine HKS one for dirt cheap)

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Test fit to where it will sit, seems okay to me so I’ll get the auto electrician around soon it get it all wired in.

While I was inside the car for a change I made some door bar protectors out of some old vinyl wrap I have.

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Hopefully it’ll help with the paint on the door bars getting ruined. Being yellow it shows up a lot of marks.

Hoping to get the dash sorted soon and finally get the car on the road properly! 

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Edited by Lewis_UK

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Your very brave guy tackling this build,good to see the turboyaris is coming along fine,btw is there a part number for that trip CPU delete cubby hole ,would like one of those myself as I don't use mine either,and I now have led taillights super rare got them off a yarisclub owner sold on eBay ,well pleased 😁 keep up your good work buddy 

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Regarding your radiator troubles, aren't their any companies building custom rads in the UK. I looked into that in the past and I could spec everything, from material to sizes to fitting locations.

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@wobblyman Thanks, I got the trip delete from someone selling it on the Facebook page. I don’t have the part number unfortunately 

@AtleX I did email a few company’s and none were very local to me and no one got back to me annoyingly. The money I’ve spent swapping and changing radiators I could’ve probably had one made but it’s too late and at least others can do the same if they fancy it.

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I spent 2ish months driving the car around bath and forth to work and where ever I could to get miles on the engine running it in.

Had a few teething problems as you could imagine but nothing major, changing the oil and filter every 250 miles using Millers running in oil as the engine builder suggested.

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View from under the car checking for leaks. Car got MOT’d and insured and taxed during my lunch break at work and it was furthest it’s ever driven so it was pretty scary! 

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Waiting for it’s turn to be tested ! When the tester drove it in almost the whole work shop stopped to have a look even some of their customers popped over from the waiting room 🙈

About a hour later she passed, I taxed it and it was time to start the 1000 mile run in.

Running the engine in is dead annoying, no motorways no going past 4K revs can only run the car for a hour and no holding the car at a constant rev range.

Inbetween running the car in I went to the Brecon Beacons in a friends Ranault Megane sport 225 he let me borrow. A car I help build on the side of doing mine, we prepped it for track days. We dropped a size in wheel but with a more aggressive offset and a wider wheel with R888 tyres £700+ for 4 tyres 😩 brand new brembo calipers new brembo disc carbon lauren pads brakes lines, BC coilovers cobra suzuka bucket seats 6 point harness and a half cage and a OMP steering wheel. Brilliant car for blasting the welsh mountain side.

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Back to reality and back to dailying the Yaris. I finally made 1000 miles but I had a few things to sort before it could go back for mapping.

I changed the oil for Miller nano race oil new filter etc I also had to source some bigger injectors and fit a fuel pump and sort a dump valve.

Edd kindly gave me a set of corolla compressor injectors 440cc I paid postage and received them a few days later brilliant ! That’s one thing down. I already had a walbro 255 fuel pump ready to fit just a dump valve left to get. One of the mappers employees was breaking his 450bhp Subaru so he sold me his Tial Type Q dump valve that was 6 months old. It’s a V band clamp so alloy welding was involved.

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So that rendered the car undrivable until the car was mapped because of the boost solinoid etc. Few days before mapping I check my injectors the parcel was open and I only had 3 injectors ! Gutted to eBay I went to discover a breakers wanted £400 for a second handset ! No thanks. I phoned Grant (the mapper) and explain what’s happened he said to leave him with him. Next was the fuel pump, what a ballache had to modify the holder and get some more wiring done. Rushing to see my auto electrician to save my life the day before I take it for mapping he managed to sort my plugs and wiring for the pump !

Ive ran out of pictures for the moment because I wasn’t able to actually get any while the car was away. Long story short Grant ordered me some injectors based on the corolla ones and they didn’t fit unfortunately. Then he tried some Evo injectors and they fitted the head and rail but were too wide and short so when the rail was bolted down you couldn’t fit the plugs. I eventually had to have some custom made injectors by a company called “ASNU” 600cc basically the Yaris has odd size injector ports for the rail and head its abit unusual. Once they were fitted it was time for low loading mapping and VVTI set up.

We spent the whole of Saturday at GBE while it was being mapped he started off with all the boring stuff drivability and the stuff I mentioned above.

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The Dyno is a 2500 horse power super flow dyno in a cell that I believe is at ambient temperature room with fans that recreate wind speeds for the MPH that the car is rolling at. It’s very accurate and the cost is eye watering 😂 I checked the coolant and oil before we started the Dyno session and everything seemed good.

Grant continued to run the car and we got into the power runs and it was pretty nerve racking watching from the big screen outside ( with all the revs boost pressure etc ) and obviously the power grapth.

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The car did a good few power runs and behaved itself we managed to get high and low boost figures. Spent a while on the Dyno but it felt a lot longer for me 😂

Car currently doesn’t have a fuel gauge but it has a trip and it did 55 miles on the dyno and used just over about £25 in V power on the dyno.

Grant invited me on his stand at Forge action day at castle Combe and I couldn’t refuse the opportunity! Didn’t get any pictures and one is from OCD.co.ukwhoever they are so thanks to them !

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Its not very show ready as it doesn’t really have much paint on it but the shiny bits in the engine made up for that. The Escort that it was parked next to it was an immaculate shell with a YB cosworth engine it drew a lot of attention and rightly so.

Up to now I’ve managed 1700 miles and loving it ! 

Haven’t got any pictures but I moved the oil cooler because on the dyno it was heat soaking the intercooler and the radiator so I’ve moved that to the right hand side fog light. I’ve raised the bonnet to help with air flow through the engine bay as Grant said intake temps aren’t idea. I’m planning on making different feeds for cold air and trying to get hold of a D4D intercooler air duct to channel cold air into the engine bay as well as sorting some custom ducting. Once I’ve got that sorted I’ll probably take it back to have the map tweaked and maybe some changes.

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